[identity profile] ludimagist.livejournal.com posting in [community profile] davis_square
For those who live in and around Davis Sq, what do you wish you knew about before moving there?

I'm about to move to the area to start grad school at Tufts (I just got offered the apt I wanted today and will be moving in August).

What should I know about the area before living there? I moved from NYC to Waltham 2 years ago so I'm somewhat familiar with Boston in general.

Date: 2004-06-17 11:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] being-homeless.livejournal.com
I looooooove davis square. If you use public transportation, the redline is the best. There are several great bus routes there (87, 88, (both from lechemere) 90 (from davis) 96 (from Harvard) and several others. Porter Square is walking distance. And in Porter there is a good sized Star Market, Tags (hardware store), dry cleaners, 24 hr CVS, among other things. Davis has a lot of coffee shops- Diesel is by far my favorite, there is also Someday Cafe, Au Bon Pan, Starbucks, Carberrys, and several others. Also many restaurants, 2 video stores, a movie theatre, and Brooks.

Davis is generally a safe area (except for a few recent incidents). When I was homeless, I stayed mainly around Davis and Harvard Sq. (Davis felt much safer). I never had any incidents sleeping outside in Davis Square. (not that you will have to, but it's just a good thing to know if you wanna camp out in your yard)! ;)

If you are a night owl, the downside is that everything is Somerville closes by midnight. but there is the CVS in porter down the street that is still open 24 hours and I believe white hen pantry is as well (also in Porter). Diesel (and possibly other places) is open til 1am on Fridays and Saturdays though.

There is a library and a post office right near by. and Tufts is walking distance. I'd say that most of the people in the area are Tufts Students with some Lesley and a few Harvard Students as well.

I guess thats my summary of Davis Square... I don't know how close to Davis you'll be, but I think it's an excellent area!
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Date: 2004-06-18 04:05 am (UTC)
ceo: (Default)
From: [personal profile] ceo
Yeah, for getting to Davis from Lechmere, you may be better off walking to the Cambridgeside Galleria and taking their shuttle to Kendall.

Date: 2004-06-18 06:59 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] in-parentheses.livejournal.com
I hate the Somerville buses.

May I offer an alternate opinion? I think they're great, actually. Yes, you have to know which bus you're taking and when it comes, but that's not really too hard to figure out, and they're often *much* more efficient than the T, depending on where you're trying to go. And as for nasty weather, it's a toss-up: often the bus gets you so much closer to your destination that it's worth waiting outside. I take the 87 (to Lechmere via Union Sq.) and 77/79 (to Arlington Heights via Mass Ave.) frequently, and they're always right on time.

I highly recommend the MBTA Trip Planner: http://trip.mbta.com/cgi-bin/itin_page_dhtml.pl. You put in your location, your destination and when you want to get there, and it tells you the best ways to get there.

Date: 2004-06-18 09:58 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] treacle-well.livejournal.com
Um, not always best way. But it is a good tool for getting a quick glance at some options.

I recently used it for such, and told it to plan, allowing 1/2 mile walking distance ((possibly more--the point being, it seemed to ignore that parameter for part of its results). It correctly advised me which subway line to take, and which stop to get off at, but it then would have had me waiting around about twenty-five minutes for a bus, when I could walk to my destination (clearly less than a half mile from the stop) in about 5. Fortunately I also had a map that made that clear, and therefore did not take the unnecessary bus.

Date: 2004-06-18 05:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cedarmulberry.livejournal.com
Heh. Yes, it will definitely favor the bus over walking, even if you're only walking for two blocks and it's quiker and easier than waiting for the bus. I've gotten wierd looks from busdrivers and other passengers for taking such short rides, until I learned to always cross-reference TripPlanner directions with a map.

But I still love the TripPlanner, now that I realize I have to add a dash of my own common sense to the mix to get the most sensible directions =^)

busses

Date: 2004-06-18 08:34 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sissychrissy1.livejournal.com
FYI, there's also the 80 that runs to Lechmere through Powderhouse Square. It's only a five minute walk from Davis, so sometimes if nothing else it coming at the appropriate time, you might be able to walk down there and catch the 80.

Date: 2004-06-18 05:44 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ukelele.livejournal.com
OK, you already know it's tremendously expensive ;).

So.

MacKinnon's! It's on Elm Street, past the Diesel. No one ever goes in there because it looks little and tired. It has incredibly cheap meat. We got the makings of a steak dinner for two (including the vegetables) there once for under $5. And it's good meat, too. OK, if you're a vegetarian, you just totally didn't care about that. But if you like meat and hate your grad student budget, no better place.

If you're getting movers to help (which I *absolutely* recommend if you can afford it; they make life so much easier) avoid weekends if you can, and avoid the days near August 1 and August 30, because they will be overwhelmed. Ditto if you're renting a moving van.

There's a shuttle from Davis to Tufts but it's lame, because you can walk from Davis to Tufts. Unless it's pouring down rain, don't use the shuttle. It takes this bizarre convoluted route anyway, so it isn't even faster than walking.

East Asia (on Broadway near Powderhouse) has pretty tasty Chinese food, and I find that the dinners are big enough for lunch the next day, too (though it isn't nearly as good reheated; the sauces get weird). Similarly, Blue Shirt smoothie + half a steak burrito = lunch, and then the other half is lunch tomorrow.

The Diesel is excellent but you need to get there early to get seating. You may find the Brown & Brew, at Tufts, more useful (you need to get there "not at lunch" to get seating).

Date: 2004-06-18 06:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] raln.livejournal.com
so mackinnon's is good? i walk past there all the time and keep meaning to check it out, but i wasn't sure how a Meat Store in the middle of davis would be. i figured either Expensive, or Bad Meat. but it's neither? hm, i definitely will have to check that out then.

Date: 2004-06-18 09:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ukelele.livejournal.com
MacKinnon's rules. I mentioned it exactly because most people have the same reactions you do -- not noticing it, meaning to check it out but forgetting, assuming it must be skanky. My husband and I ignored it for a long time too and I don't remember why we stopped, but we were so happy to have found it :). Go! Get meat! For cheap!

Date: 2004-06-18 01:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wisdom-seeker.livejournal.com
MacKinnon's is a holdover from the pre-no-rent-control-in-Cambridge-so-everyone-moved-to-Slummerville (Sommerville's former moniker) day's. I first moved into Davis when the Someday was the *only* coffee shop and the movie theater was still being renovated. Anyways, McKinnon's has good meat and other basics (bread, cheese, some fresh veggies).

Date: 2004-06-19 10:07 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] denonymous.livejournal.com
I'll have to back this one up, too. McKinnon's has fantastic quality meat for way cheap. I can't remember any prices off the top of my head, but I do recall such things as 2-for-1 bacon and the like. But seriously, the meat really is good. It looks sketchy, but once you get past that it's a goldmine.

Date: 2004-06-18 06:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] leighjen.livejournal.com
There is a Farmer's Market every Wednesday from the end of May until around Thanksgiving. It is in the parking lot behind the Buck-A-Book. I recommend the goat cheese lady.

Date: 2004-06-18 07:01 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] in-parentheses.livejournal.com
Ditto. The market runs from noon until 6 and includes bread, cheese, fruits & veggies, and even meat and shellfish sometimes. Almost all of it is cheaper and better than you'd get at the supermarket. Plus you get to chat with the goat cheese lady (whose name is Erin, I think)!

Date: 2004-06-18 06:26 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pir.livejournal.com
Welcome to Tufts (I work in TCCS).

Recommendation for MacKinnon's strongly seconded. Their pre-marinaded packages of meat are really good, particularly for grilling in the summer.

Other recommendations for resturants and things; Diesel (cafe), Redbones (BBQ and good beer variety, two bars), The Burren (Irish style bar, can get stupidly busy Friday/Saturday especially in term time), Namaskar (good Indian food, I eat there a lot), Out of the Blue (cheapish seafood, on Highland), Gargoyles (special event type resturant, very good food), Rosie's (diner). In Porter there are also many more things, including some very good and cheap Japanese noodle places in Porter Exchange.

There are lots of things to do, including movies (Somerville theater), live music (all over, particularly the Somerville theater and Johnny D's), and candlepin bowling (hiding in a side street).

Date: 2004-06-18 11:35 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pir.livejournal.com
Tufts Telicommunications and Computer Services.

I don't really know much about the academic or lifestyle side of the university, I just work there :)

The gym is pretty good, relatively new weight and cardio equipment. The pool is kinda small but ok.

Date: 2004-06-18 08:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pir.livejournal.com
I'm afraid I don't know anything about the squash courts, I don't play.

As to martial arts, I do Aikido at New England Aikikai (http://www.neaikikai.org/) in Porter.
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(deleted comment)

Date: 2004-06-18 07:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xoynotsmilexo.livejournal.com
Can i ask how u found ur apt? Im going to grad school at Tufts in the fall, and moving in August and i havent gotten a place YET and its slightly freaking me out! Thanks

Date: 2004-06-18 08:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sissychrissy1.livejournal.com
I had to take care of all of my arrangements in the course of about three weeks last summer and did so through craigslist (and a visit here to meet with prospective roommates and look at apartments).

Date: 2004-06-18 09:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ukelele.livejournal.com
In addition to the things people have mentioned (and seconding Craigslist (http://boston.craigslist.com)), there's a web page that Tufts has...let me look for it...ah, here (http://ase.tufts.edu/och/Listings/Listing_form_ApartmentsforRent.htm). And there are listings at the Boston Globe (http://www.boston.com). And you can use this community or related ones to look for roommates.

I see in your user info that you're from DC, so here are a few basic facts about area housing that you may or may not know...

1) It's expensive. If you find something for $500/month plus utilities near Tufts, you're lucky. (All rents are quoted not including utilities.)

2) You need a roommate. I mean, unless you want to pay $800/month or more. Studios/1BRs are tremendously expensive.

3) There is a lot of public transportation and it is very useful, but it's hard to tell which apartments are convenient to useful transportation and which aren't unless you've lived here for a while. Realtors will not know (they may *say* "this is close to the T" or whatever, but they have no clue what it's like to navigate around here without a car). If you expect to be dependent on public transportation, ask a local about an apartment's location before you say yes to it.

4) The market moves very fast. It may be only a day or two between hearing about your apartment and signing a lease on it. It's scary, but that's how it goes. Because of this, I wouldn't freak out too much (maybe some, but not too much) that you don't have your apartment yet. People are only just now signing for August 1 apartments and probably won't sign on their September 1 apartments until July.

5) Speaking of which, practically everything turns over the 1st of the month. And the vast majority of apartments turn over in August or September, especially September, so there's a lot on the market. If you were looking for a mid-month date, try pushing it back or forward to the 1st of whichever month is more convenient and you will have many more options.

6) If you haven't, ask your department secretary about housing leads and about other grad students who are looking for roommates. Often they know these things. Chances are there are other incoming students in your department in the same situation, or current grads who need to find a roommate.

hah

Date: 2004-06-18 08:12 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] freyja.livejournal.com
i wish i'd known all the freaking parking rules, including the "hidden" ones. but i'd never lived around boston before.

i wish i'd known there was a bowling alley behind someday cafe, how's that? :)
(deleted comment)

Re: hah

Date: 2004-06-18 08:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] fidgetmonster.livejournal.com
my bf is a pool table mechanic and he is in the process of redoing all the pool tables there, so at least the tables will be nice! and frankly, bowling alley's that AREN'T divey just seem ... weird. :)

Re: hah

Date: 2004-06-18 09:57 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hauntmeister.livejournal.com
i wish i'd known there was a bowling alley behind someday cafe, how's that?

Yeah, everybody forgets about Sacco's Bowl Haven! (http://www.saccosbowlhaven.com/) In fact, I think it's the bowling alley that time forgot. The whole place seems like it's been in a bubble since 1947.

Re: hah

Date: 2004-06-18 02:51 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] freyja.livejournal.com
actually if it hadn't been for this very community i wouldn't have known at all! too bad i found out about it two days before i moved :P

Date: 2004-06-18 09:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] marlatiara.livejournal.com
Do you live in Waltham now? I am almost definitely moving there *from* Davis Square soon, so I would like to pose the same question back at you. ;) (I may make a separate post once I find out if it's happening for sure.)

I just say that if you live near Davis, make sure to explore Teele Square - there are some amazing restaurants here. :) Also I wish I'd known - but soon discovered - that there's a library branch right in the square. No need to drive/take a bus to the main branch, just request books online and have them delivered. Tadaaaah!

request online?

Date: 2004-06-18 10:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] enochs-fable.livejournal.com
Ooh. Do they have a website? I wonder if you can use it if you're in Medford.

Re: request online?

Date: 2004-06-18 10:32 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] marlatiara.livejournal.com
www.mln.lib.ma.us

Not sure if the Medford library is part of the network, but if it is...yeah. It's amazing. :)

Date: 2004-06-19 05:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hyperliminal.livejournal.com
Having spent 4 years in Waltham at Brandeis, 2 living off campus, I second everything ludimagist said, and add:

* There's a canoe place on the Charles right by Brandeis, near the rt. 30/mass pike crossing and right by the Marriott (never had a car so never learned exactly how to drive there). The river out there is beautiful, espeically in the fall.

* Little India on Moody St. Still my favorite Indian restaurant in the Boston area, though Punjabi Dhaba in Inman runs a close second for a very different genre of restaurant (LI is more your classic restaurant atmosphere, great food, not yuppy, good prices, best lassi ever).

* Carambola on Main by Moody is better than its sister restaurant The Elephant Walk and cheaper, too.

* You may commute by commuter rail but don't forget about the 553 and 70 buses, which I depended on, as they run much more often and in the case of the 70 later than the train. 70 goes to Central, 553 goes to Newton Corner and then downtown by South Station/Chinatown.

Date: 2004-06-18 06:37 pm (UTC)
siderea: (Default)
From: [personal profile] siderea
1) I wished I'd figured out how close Davis is to Mass Ave, sooner! There's a 24hr White Hen Pantry ~5 blocks from Davis (the Store24 in Davis is, being in Sommerville, a Store18).

2) Go check out Pemberton Farms on Mass Ave near Rindge. I can't believe I lived here for so long thinking it was just a garden supply store. It's a gourmet grocery.

3) La Contessa pasteries are almost as good as Mike's in the North End.

4) Officially speaking, the 87 bus does not stop "at Porter Sq." It stops next to the Star Market in Porter Sq. which is as good as; at least at one point the official literature did not make that at all clear.

5) Hop on the 87 and take it to Union Sq. There's all sorts of good cheap stuff there, so take the time to scope it out.

6) ArtBeat! Be aware that once a year in July, Davis Sq. has its annual street festival, "ArtBeat!" Even if you're uninterested in the festival, it's a massive road block, so it's good to keep it in your awareness.

7) http://www.tuftslife.com/dining -- The single most useful web page for living in the area, IMHO. :) Not only does it have all the menus you could want, the little door icons indicate whether each restaurant is open right now.

8) Competition for seating at the Diesel is so fierce that if you leave your food to go to the restroom, you might return to find it cleared, even if you did leave some indication you aren't done.

9) Carberry's has great danishes.

10) Anna's Tacqueria has a <$5 "mexican plate" which is a deal; open till 11pm. Dragon Garden has a <$4 daily lunch special, many of which are quite good. Golden Light (Chinese) is open until 2:30a on Fri. & Sat.

11) If you have more time than money, the North Cambridge Laundromat has a wash-dry-fold service. I think it's $0.88/lb, 7lbs minimum. They may also deliver (not sure).

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